Pearis Mt.- Goats and Angels Rest, Pearisburg, New River, Mail Drop, Peter's Mt.

I was out of Doc's Knob shelter and on the trail at 7:40 A.M., eager to get into Pearisburg. Except for one brief but terribly steep climb, it was pretty much a level ridgewalk. At one point I was following a trail parallel to some powerlines and I had the distinct feeling that I was not headed in the right direction. I could not find any blazes, though this was clearly a trail. Before going any further I backtracked to where I saw the last blaze. On the way there I saw the double blaze indicating the turn in the trail I missed. It goes up there???? That's damn near straight up. And so it was, almost vertical, right straight up to the ridge. Not something I wanted to do in the heat of another high 70's day. But it had to be done. At least I had the company of white blazes again.

The ridgewalk would have been another heavily wooded, rather uninteresting trudge along a mountain ridge except for the surprise I met up with. I sat on a log to rest and sip some water when I herd the jingle-jingle of a bell - or bells. They got closer and closer. Then I saw one - then two - then a third goat. Two of them were wearing cowbells. This was no pasture, though. Clearly these were escapees. Goats on the lamb. I took a couple of pictures and tried to coax them near, but they remained a safe distance. I got up and they took off at a quick pace.

Goats along the trail on Pearis Mt.

The trail started to descend through heavy rhododendron thickets and a massive rock formation. I came to Angels Rest. I followed the blue blazes out to View Rock and enjoyed a spectacular view of the valley below, the New River and Pearisburg. It was hazy and felt like it might rain, so I did not linger.

Pearisburg and New River Valley from Angel's Rest.

The trail down to the valley was a series of steep, sometimes very steep, switchbacks. I was grateful for my light pack and hiking sticks. So far - no knee trouble. If this 2000-foot descent didn't make my knees seize up, nothing would. I was glad I was going downhill but knew that I soon would be climbing an equally nasty mountain once I crossed the valley. I reached town and headed for the post office - up a long, steep road. On the way I found a pay phone and called home. All was well. At the top of the hill I stopped at Dairy Queen and got pork BBQ and giant strawberry shake. My plan was to get my resupply at the Post Office and then pick up more to eat and a couple subs or sandwiches to go for dinner and breakfast. I did not plan on staying in town since I had arrived before noon. Many other hikers were planning a stay at the Holy Family Hospice Hostel. Though ahead of schedule, I wanted to move on. I knew I had a rugged and challenging 2000-foot climb ahead of me and I wanted to get it over with well before dark.

There were other hikers at the post office - two with two dogs. I got my mail drop which included the usual food plus some clean clothes. When no one was looking, I quickly slipped out of my boots and made an even quicker pants change in the corner of the post office lobby. I sent back the pants I was wearing and some other dirty clothes, my exposed film and trail guides and maps for the trail I had covered. As I was finishing up my pack it began to rain. Another hiker came in and offered me a ride to the trailhead. I accepted and hopped in the back of an open pickup - the front was full. Shortly, I was out of town, across the New River at the trailhead. It was raining vigorously. As the truck pulled away I suddenly remembered I had not executed my food plan - I forgot to get more food, in such a hurry to take advantage of the ride. Oh well, I'd have to make do with what I had. I always carried a full days reserve food, anyway.

The trailhead was across from a huge Celenex plant. It was some kind of manufacturing plant that sprawled for hundreds of acres, made noise you could hear for miles and miles, and emitted a strong sulfur-like odor. Not exactly an ideal environment for the AT but probably Pearisburg's single largest employer. A nearby stream was thick with algae and had warning signs posted: Polluted Water - Do Not Drink. Over the hill I came across a much larger stream and treated some water to drink. Then I climbed the nose of Peters Mountain, all the while in sight, sound and smell of that industrial plant. It was an exhausting climb even with my light pack. The high humidity made me sweat profusely.

Finally, I made the ridge and followed it to the shelter. The map had two different names for it and the guidebook had a name that was different from the one on the shelter. It was either the Star Haven or Rice Field shelter, depending on what you believed. It was a fairly new shelter but had one serious drawback. Water was at a tiny trickle of a spring one half mile away and about 300 -400 feet down, if not more. It was a 30 minute trek (round trip) for water but the alternative, no water, was not an option.

Kineo, a hiker from Maine was at the shelter when I arrived. Moto, Silver Nipples and Coach came along later. The two hikers with the two dogs did not show up, thankfully. The shelter was at the edge of an open field that sat on the ridge overlooking a beautiful, expansive valley. The view was incredible. That night we were treated to an awe inspiring sunset. Though windy and getting cold, Moto and Coach chose to sleep out in the open on the edge of the ridge and soak up the view. As the sunset faded into dusk and the lights came on in the valley below, and the stars came out, it was truly an inspirational place to be. What an unforgettable view. It truly made the climb worth it.

Beautiful valley below Star Haven (Rice Field) shelter.