Dates ........ Sunday, September 23, 2001
Miles ........ 14.7 miles, climb 4000 feet.
From ........ Moreland Gap Shelter
To .............Braemar Hostel (the Castle), Hamton, TN.
Weather ... Very humid, mid 50's, to mid 60's, partly sunny. Hazy. No breeze.

Sunday, September 23, 2001

White Rocks Mt,(4206'), White Rocks fire tower (partially dismantled (4105'), Laurel Falls and Laurel Fork Gorge, Hamton, TN.

I did not sleep well last night, and that always translates into a sluggish hiking day where I lack energy. I was, however, looking forward to the reputed spectacular Laurel Falls and Gorge and my re-supply stay in Hamton, calling home and getting cleaned up again. The gentle climb to White Rocks Mt was pleasant, though it was heavily wooded and there was no view.

AT White Rocks Fire tower, I met two guys and a dog on a weekend camping trip. When I related my water treatment misfortune to them, one of them immediately volunteered that he had just purchased a new water filter and loved it and had some iodine tablets he would be glad to give me - a new bottle he thought. After a little rummaging through his pack, he found them. A full bottle, with probably enough for 20-30 quarts of water. Lucky me. That's just what I needed to complete my trek. I thanked them profusely for putting and end to my water worries. This was the first (and only) trail magic to work for me on this trek.

From the fire tower it was all downhill to Laurel Gorge and its falls, then along the stream to the highway and into Hamton. I met Gander, a southbound hiker.

Laurel Gorge was a popular place with a paved road and AT parking area and two hostels at its head. It was crawling with day hikers and weekenders out enjoying the pretty area and nice weather. I entered the gorge and followed the stream down. At the first footbridge there was a group of rock climbers on a practice session, climbing up the gorge walls and rappelling down. I ate lunch as I watched them with great interest. Laurel Falls, further down the beautiful gorge, were beautiful, To reach the base of them, I had to climb down a steep series of laid up stone steps leading away from the AT. The beauty and ruggedness of the area combined with the roar of rushing water was mesmerizing. I could have stayed there for hours.

Laurel Falls

I climbed back up the stairs to the trail and followed it back down to the stream. It went along a narrow ledge right on the edge of a vertical rock face and the stream, just inches from the rushing water. Then it became a wide, gentle footpath that followed the stream, crossing it twice on giant handmade log bridges. A couple of times the trail climbed to a bluff to get around an impassible face and once more it traveled a narrow ledge along the waters edge before coming to the US 321 highway.

Handmade log bridge crossing Laurel Fork Creek.

I walked the highway into town; found the Braemar Castle hostel and Mr. Brown, its laid-back proprietor. After I called home and reinforced that I was still a full day ahead of my planned schedule, I took a shower and washed some of my trail duds. Sunday afternoon in Hamton is very quiet and peaceful. There is nothing to do, nothing open except for a restaurant, so I went and ate a double burger, mashed potatoes, salad, and piece of pie. Then I walked back to the hostel and read some magazines. Mr. Brown, proprietor of the local market, hardware store, farm and feed store, agreed to let me get some supplies at his (closed) store. He opened it Sunday evening for me. Tomorrow, he was to give me a ride to the post office and then to the trailhead. My room in the "castle" was very nice. I had opted for the private room for only $5.00 more, though no one else was at the hostel and the bunkroom would have been just as private. The clean modern shower was thoroughly enjoyed.

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