Free Spirit’s ( Al's )

Appalachian Trail Journal

NH,VT & MASS- Part 4

Dates ........ Thursday Sept 14, 2000
Miles ........ 9.1 miles
From ........ NH Eliza Brook Shelter
To ............. Moosilauke's north slope Beaver Brook Shelter
Weather ... 48 degF, Sunny and hazy AM, cloudy upper 60's humid, muggy PM

Thursday Sept 14, 2000

Awesome Beaver Brook Cascades, Mt Moosilauke north slope base climb

I was first up and out of the shelter, on the trail at 7:45 as others were still sleeping, but feeling sluggish as I crossed the saddle between Kinsman and Wolf Mountains, then started the ascent of Mt. Wolf's 3478' east peak. Looking back (north) from the summit was the perfect view of the Presidential Range and Franconia Ridge. Descending Mt. Wolf. I disturbed a large Rat snake basking in the sun on the trail. He moved slowly away, his just eaten dinner resulting in a large bulge about 1/3 the way down his 5 foot length.

At Kinsman Notch, NH route 112, I satisfied my incessant urge to eat at Lost River Gorge- a tourist trap based on a river that disappears underground into a huge cavern. I fueled up on pizza, orange juice, two sauerkraut hot dogs and a Mounds bar and ordered a couple of subs to go - one for dinner, the other for tomorrow's breakfast. They gave a generous discount to through hikers. I talked to three northbounders that had just come over Moosilauke and they said the summit was a piece of cake but the section from the (Beaver Brook) shelter to NH 112 was a real treat.

Energized with a full belly I headed back up route 112 to the trailhead. There a sign warned of a steep, dangerous trail - especially hazardous when wet. The inexperienced were advised to consider other trails and the experienced were admonished to proceed with caution. The signs said nothing of the raw natural beauty of the tumbling cascades and waterfalls Beaver Brook made as it raced nearly straight down the mountainside gorge.

Part of Beaver Brook cascade on Mount Moosilauke

It was a tough climb with treacherous footing. I had that point driven home to me when I met a lone hiker on his way down with a badly bruised and swollen - probably fractured- forearm in a sling. He had stepped off the trail to take a photo of a waterfall, lost his balance, fell and tumbled until being stopped by a boulder. His clothes and backpack tattered, his camera smashed, he declined my offer of assistance and headed for the nearby Lost River Gorge and medical assistance. His hike was over.

The sweat poured off me as I pushed and pulled myself up the trail. Rock and wood steps, iron grab bars, tree branches, trunks and roots were all enlisted to get me there. There were spots where only a 12 inch wide ledge of rock was between you and the water filled gorge twenty feet below. I spent two sweaty hours climbing one mile and 1800 feet up to the shelter. But the Beaver Brook cascades and gorge made every agonizing foot worth it. They had plenty of water and were beautiful beyond description. The sound of the cascading water was so refreshing on this muggy day.

Another part of beaver Brook cascade on Mount Moosilauke, NH

My reward - besides the beauty of the gorge and a much-needed rest - was a glorious though somewhat haze obscured view of the Presidentials and Franconia Ridge. A few other northbound hikers stopped in for rest and water and pushed on. Later, a few more stopped and decided to stay, not wanting to risk the lower cascade trail in the dark. A very wise move I thought.

The weather forecast was not good. Another storm was coming - windy with heavy rain and thundershowers for the area, beginning early tomorrow morning.

The way I was sweating and my minimalist clothing required that I do trail laundry often or smell like a black bear just out of hibernation. I did laundry, ate supper and was in bed asleep before 9 P.M. in the full shelter. Tomorrow, I conquered the last of the NH's White Mountains on the AT - Mount Moosilauke. Vermont, everyone promised, would be easier.

 

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Spring/Fall hikes - 15 miles/day - Contact Al. aljohn@jmclum.com.
Last Updated 11/22/2000