Dates ........ Saturday, August 24, 2002
Miles ........ 10.2 miles
From ........ Stealth Camp - Grafton Notch State Park ME
To ............. East B hill Road Andover ME Pine Ellis B&B
Weather ... Warm, hazy, humid,

Saturday, August 24, 2002

Baldpate Mountain W 3662', E 3810', Dunn Notch and Falls, Andover ME

The first 120 miles of Maine are brutal. There are many mountains over 3500' high with notches or valleys down around 1500'. Today its Baldpate with twin peaks, then I'll attack Old Blue and Bemis (Bemis Range), then the three Saddlebacks in the Saddleback Range followed by Spaulding and the twin Crocker Peaks, then the two peaks of the Bigelows, both over 4,000' and a host of lesser mountains in between. One mountain after another. And the footpaths up and down these mountains are not graded and smooth. They are "au natural" - big and bigger rocks, round boulders, sharp jagged rocks, rock domes, with ample amounts of tree roots thrown in. And there are no switchbacks to ease the challenge. The trails head right up or down the best available ridge or route straight to the top or bottom. The elevation profiles on the maps are like none other, save some of the White Mountains in NH. Put the two together - northern NH and Southern ME - and you have a killer hike. It's a make or break deal. If you make it, you can take on anything the east coast or Appalachian Trail has to challenge you with confidence and pride. If it breaks you and you fail, you have been broken by the most rugged and challenging trail section anywhere on the east coast.

Climb up the side of Baldpate Mt.

Along the way there are the rewards. The physical challenge is nearly constant. Just keeping going and meeting that challenge is significant gratification. As I hiked I thrilled to the awesome views of rolling mountains and deep forest as far as the eye could see. I marveled at the seldom seen pristine lakes and ponds and the streams and rivers running crystal clear and free. I breathed air that was fresh and clear, free of exhaust and industrial fumes, and air that was enhanced with the incomparable delicacy of balsam and forest scent. These are some of the rewards that kept me going, even when the going got rough.

It was a steep climb out of Grafton Notch for the first 1100 feet and 1.5 miles, then the trail leveled off for a mile as it traversed a ledge on the side of Baldpate. The next 1100 feet were rockier and steeper as they climbed 3662' West Peak. Then a steep 500' descent and a very steep 700' climb brought us to Baldpate's 3810' East summit. From there we worked our way down to Frye Notch where we took a lunch break at the shelter there. Then a 1000' climb up Surplus Mt. and a gentler, but no less rocky and rooty descent down to Dunn Notch. Dunn Notch was a beautiful stream gorge that emptied into a deep chasm with a spectacular waterfall. Well, it would have been more spectacular if there was more water in the stream. But it was impressive and beautiful nonetheless. I could not help but marvel at the way the rocks were carved by the force of the water. The trail crossed exactly at the head of the falls, where the rock formed a steep vertical cliff falling straight to the bottom of the gorge below. It was impressive and beautiful.

Dunn Notch and falls. Looking over the edge into the gorge.

Then we went through a deep pine forest - a rare section of nice trail that was amazingly lacking in rocks - along the high ridge of Dunn Notch, following the stream to the highway. Along the way we came to a placid little pool fed by a pretty cascade. At the road we met two other hikers waiting for a ride into Andover.

Let me digress for a moment. Knowing how I, and others like me, seek out and enjoy the natural beauty of the wilderness, would I be justified in being annoyed at someone that had pinned dozens of his business cards to trees along the trail? Not just near a road crossing or at a shelter, but for miles into the forest on dozens of trees along the trail. The cards were advertising his Andover Guest House and Hostel. We removed every one we saw. They were offensive and serious trail litter. His aggressive advertising methods ensured that we would not stay there, no matter what.

As we were pondering a way into town, a pickup truck stopped. The gentleman inside was seeking local information and directions, which we were hardly in a position to provide. We suggested he give us a lift into town where he could find the information he needed. Thus, we had a ride into town. I had pre-arranged a ride with the hostel owners at 6 P.M. , but we did not want to just hang around at the roadside for more than two hours when we could be feeding our faces in town!

Andover is a cute little rural Maine town that grew up around the crossroads of two highways. There was a tiny park and gazebo, two little grocery stores, a couple restaurants, post office, guesthouse and that was about it. Residences were within a block or two of this main section. Everyone seemed to know everyone else by first name. Sly and I bought some supplies and ice cream, made a few phone calls, then ordered a pizza and had some beer. Then we walked the few hundred feet to the Pine Ellis B&B, where we were greeted and welcomed as family. There, we got our laundry done, reorganized and resupplied our packs, showered, shaved and relaxed. I put together my sandwiches for the next 5 days. Paul and Ilene gave us fresh watermelon and made us feel right at home. Boy, that watermelon and a soft, clean bed were such a treat. Four others were there, but they were not AT hikers.

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